Casale della Ioria Espero Olivella Nera 2021

The ‘Espero’ may be one of the only bottlings devoted to Lazio’s vanishingly rare Olivella Nera – certainly the only one we’ve encountered! Paolo first encountered the grape deep in the mountains, and returned home instead with cuttings of this obscure native variety. The 15-year-old plot is green harvested for focus, fermented in steel with a natural pied de cuve and daily punch-downs, then aged six months on fine lees with occasional stirring. In the glass: deep, dark purple. The nose leans almost Syrah-like at first — blackberry jelly, black cherry, a hint of kirsch — layered with black pepper, olive, and purple flowers. A swirl brings lift: cardamom, cinnamon, even a hint of tomato leaf. It moves from blue and brambly to tart red fruit, with a wild, mountain edge that feels vaguely Spanish-esque, like Mencia, but bigger, more structured, distinctly Italian. On the palate it’s dry and precise, not plummy, with fine but sneaky tannins that quietly demand something fatty on the table. Tart berries snap against vibrant acidity. Spice builds on the finish, with pepper, light clove, a touch of cinchona bark leaving a savory, slightly shadowed impression. Definitely one best served with a good meal — something fatty, spiced, and smoky would do the trick.